All,
Parts attached to this post are being offered for free if they are of use to you? I only ask that you cover the postage.
Stay safe and positive

Julian

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As there are no classic car shows for the foreseeable future lets have our own one on the forum ill start the show with my 24ct and look forward to seeing lots of pictures soon

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Spotted on Ebay looks good condition 


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaeger-Rev-Co...Sw7speUrZA

Hello Panhardists,

My name is Dago, I live in Nijmegen (NL) and have been owning a Panhard 17 break for more than 10 years now.



Want to see more pictures? Look at https://myalbum.com/album/P8I37TYwLkTq

Regards, Dago.

As this forum is so slow, and I was busy today, with an itch to scratch, I'd thought I'd post this - it might stimulate comment

Years ago, I used "fox wedges" and hardened Fiat 124 camshaft shims to separate crankshafts, but aligning four wedges, four shims, and using left and right hand simultaneously isn't something most folks can do, so I came up with a better way, if only to avoid the ridicule from some negatory souls that don't get it.

The problem is whatever you do to a Panhard crankshaft it will always create an offset load, nothing I've seen addresses this easily, and these pesky crankshaft sure test the grey matter. The easiest & best solution is to make a small hole opposite the crank pin centre and use this as a push point, which by its nature is acting on the centre of the pin, and with clever supports, no rocking couple is introduced. It's nothing new the old Panhard crankshafts had a removable plug, so all you're doing is recreating this. Purists will say this is heresy, as you're ruining the balance, but the Panhard crankshaft is deliberately imbalanced to stop a destructive harmonic, and drilling a 10mm hole here is not a huge issue, but you can restore the status quo, if you feel the need by modding the flywheel further to compensate, or drilling another hole on the other crankweb. This way you can split from any side. 


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As an example of a "Heath Robinson" approach, all you need is two or three aluminium blocks and two long straps of 15mm steel, although this could be refined with a bespoke laser cut plate, and some special standoffs, welded or affixed to it that sit on your press bed, but this simple approach will work. The minimum requirement for the hole is 10mm, as an 8mm carbide will shatter at the first press release shockwave, and 8mm silvered steel will deform at around 6 Tonnes, and BTW (typically) the Panhard crankshaft will release at around 7.5 Tonnes, and decrease thereafter as it moves out. The science of an interference fit says the first few millimetres and last few millimetres of the interference do all the work (stress distribution curves to be more precise look like a suspension bridge across the hole's axial section).


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All you need is a small fastener of 10,8 or 12,9 strength like a socket screw (threads cut off - they will deform at the threads, I use a dowel pin), and a small larger diameter packer to take you up to the ram, and once centred, pump till you hear the "crack". After this it'll ease, on subsequent pumps, and before you know it, the crank web will fall onto that softwood packer you placed underneath.


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Then flip the crankshaft over, and just push the exposed crankpin out, using another pin or cylindrical scrap of metal, like you do with any motorcycle pressed crankshaft. 


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Hopefully you won't see this


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All the best
Mike

The RIPL Sweden Event is still going ahead for the 24-27 July 2020 at the moment, and registrations have been held open until the 31 May 2020, but it might not go ahead, it depends on what CoVid-19 restrictions are in force. The latest information can be found here.


https://ripl2020.se/english/eng-start/index.html?

Mike

I'm the parts Man for the Panhard GB club I hold many second hand parts and a few new service parts mainly for PL17 and 24 models these parts are available to all Club members. To join the club, which is only £20 per year,  you can find the application form on the club Panhard GB website.

John Bellwood here, thanks for this Mike, if we can keep it clean and safe it’s a brilliant idea!

well done Mike and thanks for the effort, all seems to work well so far.
As this is the page for 'introductions' perhaps for those of you who don't know me, I am Geoff. I am british and live in France with my wife where we run a b&b business. I have a RHD 1952 Dyna X86 (the 1952 London show car) and a 1955 Dyna Z1. I also have three FIATS; a 500 giardiniera, 124 Spider and a 1995 Coupe.
Here's to an active future for the forum. Thanks again Mike
regards to all
geoff

Hi and welcome.

Some sample text can be added here, and etc etc...and you can add styles, by clicking on the icons when you "Post Thread" (create a new topic), or if you want to reply using the "New Reply" button.

You can also add a picture, by going down to the bottom of this window, and selecting "Choose Files" next to New Attachment, and you can highlight text or leave as normal.
Pictures get inserted, once you "Add Attachment", you can click on "Insert Into post", and it will go where the cursor is when you click on this, but beware a poorly sized picture will dominate the webpage, and is very unnecessary. This was a 1.6Mb jpg, and it has blown the page!

   

You can then add another... but try and think about the file sizes, and the resultant image size, as modern smartphones etc can have very large images, and this is the same one as above, but I cropped it to 640 pixels wide in the picture below, and it's still too big. :o

   

and there's hardly any difference between the two above, one is around 1.6Mb, the other about 800Kb (about 50% smaller in file size), but I've cropped the image to just 400 pixels wide for the picture below, and finally the webpage is holding up. A little thought when attaching pictures really does make a difference, and still gets the message across, without slowing everything down.

   


Thanks for reading & good luck posting
Mike